The great advantage of nordic kit over alpine is its light weight, and its convenience over undulating terrain. However, there are wide variations from the lightest skis designed for prepared tracks to robust touring skis which approach the weight of the lightest of alpine boards. For the gentlest of low-level tours, the lightest of gear will suffice. This means light skis with plastic edges and one of the lightweight binding systems linked to light ski shoes which resemble trainers. This gear scarcely weighs more than a good pair of walking boots. The next step up is a heavier boot which clips to a nordic norm binding on a light touring ski, usually with aluminium edges. This gives considerably more control in difficult conditions and on steeper slopes which may be impossible to traverse with plastic edges. However, aluminium edges won't take a lot of abuse on rocky terrain, so stick to tours over grass or (frozen) bog.

Heavier again are full touring skis with steel edges, robust 3-pin telemark bindings and strong, usually leather, touring boots. These skis are still visibly narrower and lighter than alpine downhill skis, and with a nordic flex designed specifically with a "wax pocket" in the middle which grips the snow when the ski is kicked down hard, but not when the skis are evenly weighted in gliding forward. They are generally much better for downhill control and perform well in telemark or parallel turns. For steeper ascents, nordic skis can be used with skins, which enable bigger gradients to be tackled direct. The back ski in the photo has a flip-up "climbing step" to support the heel when making these steeper ascents.

Three-pin bindings put quite a bit of stress on the toe of the boot, and heavy use in rough conditions may make the system less reliable. For these conditions, cable bindings are better, as they distribute the stress onto more robust parts of the boot. At the heaviest (and most expensive) end of the market come skis almost indistinguishable from alpine downhill skis. The photo shows cable bindings on a light telemark ski, and on a junior alpine slalom racing ski. I find the latter combination of short (165cm) wide, but light alpine ski with nordic binding is bouyant enough to stay on top of poor snow, but short enough to be very forgiving when making short turns and hacking through a landscape dotted with rocks and vegetation.

Less relevant to the tours in this guide, full alpine touring kit is more appropriate to ski mountaineering, tackling steep slopes and difficult snow conditions more typical of the alps. Ascent with this equipment requires the use of skins, and putting these on and removing them every time you change from ascent to descent and vice versa is time consuming. Thus, this type of equipment is best suited to ascents of peaks in which the route is continuously (and perhaps steeply) uphill all the way to the objective, and the descent similarly direct. If you deliberately seek out the steeper slopes in this area, you may have fun with this kit, but most people will prefer to save this heaviest of gear for Scotland or the Lake District.

Have you got Emery bindings ? Broken ? Damaged ? Never use them ? WANTED Emery Altitude +LX bindings - any condition considered. Mine are twenty years old and still going - but not going strong. Emery now only do Snowboard stuff and have no stock of spares for ski touring bindings. Bits are getting hard to find and I would really like a spare pair of bindings or broken bindings to break up for spares. Don't throw away your old/broken bindings or bits. Mail me on <andrew> -at- <pennine.demon.co.uk> with an asking price or I'll make you an offer (this paragraph is current as of February 2004).

Each grade of ski can be used on easier tours, though the extra weight will mean extra effort - this isn't usually a problem unless you are racing ! The lighter skis can also be taken on more serious tours, if the user has the necessary skills to avoid obstacles and maintain control with the lighter (and weaker) equipment. The lightest kit is often available as a cheap "package deal" including skis, bindings, boots and poles, and this can be very attractive for the occasional skier who doesn't intend to progress to more serious touring. However, unless you intend visiting areas with prepared tracks more often than you take on 'natural' snow, I would recommend at least light touring skis with alloy edges. If you just see the Dales as a place to snatch odd day-tours to keep your hand in for more serious tours in Scotland or abroad, then go for the more robust touring kit, as it will last much longer and be safer in difficult places. A heavy touring boot with vibram-type sole will also be much safer for walking in icy conditions (eg. crossing streams, or approaching a high snowline from the valley).

As noted above, alpine ski-mountaineering gear is not really necessary in the Dales, but can be fun in some conditions if you already have the gear. Similarly, it is rare to find anywhere where ice-axe or crampons are required on the tours described here. For tackling steeper slopes on nordic skis, some may prefer to carry self-arrest grips which are a little like the pick of an ice-axe but which attach to the handle of some types of touring pole.

A lot of the easier tours are suitable for beginners and children - some of those on forest tracks are also great if you want to tow your toddlers on a plastic sled (fairly readily converted into a handy pulk) - see our skiing with young children page.

A final thought is that whatever sort of gear you choose, make sure it fits well and you are well versed in its use. It can be quite hard to find nordic boots that fit comfortably, and if, like me, you go out for an ambitious tour in the first decent snowfall, you may find that the boots break in your feet, perhaps leading to painful blisters (I'll spare you a photo:-). A bit of training to get used to the boots as autumn turns to winter will not go amiss, and a pair of roller skis may be a fun way to build your skills and exercise during summer too. Roller skis are short, compared to real skis, so they help you to get your front-back balance right. Until you do so, good padding on the seat of your pants is well worth while !

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